Guide to Ibiza

So I’ve written blog posts for a lot of international locations and it struck me that the place I know best and get asked most about is actually that little Mediterranean island I’ve spent a lot of my life on: IBIZA.  Many people ask me for holiday tips so here goes…

When to go

My personal favourite months in Ibiza are just before and just after the summer season i.e. April/May and October/November.  The weather is at the perfect temperature in those months, there’s enough going on events wise yet you avoid the crowds the summer brings.  You can park your car easily, get cheaper prices and get in some relaxing time too.  Other good times to visit include:

June: Summer is well and truly here with all the accompanying events but not as busy as the rest of summer if you avoid opening party week.

January:  New year is great in Ibiza plus the first Saturday of the month brings my favourite party of the year: San Antonio Flower Power.

Where to stay

This depends on your budget and can range from cheap room in a hotel to luxury villa!  Taxi’s are not cheap in Ibiza so I would advise staying where you think you will spend the most time unless you’re hiring a car.  The most popular areas to stay are San Antonio and Playa Den Bossa where you will find plenty of budget accommodation.  Villas are great for big groups but tend to be in more remote locations.  There are also a few budget hostels or you can always use the island campsites if you’re willing to brave the heat of the summer.

Getting around

Taxi: Very pricey in Ibiza but quick and reliable.  Can be long waits during peak hours (e.g. certain party arrival times)

Bus: Buses serve most parts of the island and are reasonably priced.  They include an airport bus and the famous ‘Discobus’ which runs throughout the night every 30 minutes -1 hour between San Antonio and Ibiza Town stopping at all the major clubs.  The Discobus runs off-season Fridays and Saturdays only at less regular times.

Water taxi:  There are some water taxis around the island which are a scenic and relaxing way to cut out walking in the heat particularly if you’re going from San Antonio town to the bay area.

Private boats:  There are many private boat companies that will take you and your friends around the island (or part of it) often including a drinks package.

Tourist boat services:  Only run in summer season to a few beach locations. San Antonio boats run to Cala Bassa, Cala Conte and Cala Gracio.  There is also trips to Es Vedra and back.  From Ibiza Town there are boats to Playa Den Bossa.

Ferry:  Ferries run between Ibiza and Formentera but are expensive costing around 45 euros to return in a day although they are reliable and fast.  There is a cheaper but slightly slower boat service for the summer season called Aquabus that runs from Ibiza port, Figueretas and Playa Den Bossa which is over half the price.

Car hire:  Car hire is the best way to get around Ibiza but can be expensive in the summer months.  Also make sure you read the conditions carefully as there have been cases where people have had to pay out a lot of money for silly reasons.  Parking during the summer season can be very difficult.  Arrive to your destination early to guarantee a spot and be prepared to pay an extortionate rate for the privilege.

Beaches

So many to choose from!  This really depends when you go and what you’re looking for.  I personally prefer a bit of space on the beach to breathe so some of the beautiful beaches that are great for a winter trip I would avoid like the plague in summer therefore I shall break things down in an award like fashion!

Best for posing: Salinas

Best for nudity: Aguas Blancas

Best 0ff-season: Cala Bassa

Best for sunset: Cala Conte (See photo above)

Best for remoteness: Cala Llentrisca

Best for families: Cala Llenya/ Cala Gracioneta

Best hippy vibes: Benirras

But there’s a lot more to explore aswell!  Try: Cala Salada, Cala San Vicente, Cala Llonga, Cala Carbo, Cala Vadella, Cala Tarida, Es Cavallet, the list goes on!

Restaurants

There are many amazing restaurants in Ibiza, in fact way too many to mention so I shall just name a few of my favourites!

Tapas:  Tapas is a local San Antonio favourite and you can’t have a bad experience here. Tapas fusion, great value dishes, amazing cocktails (I particularly recommend the strawberry daiquiri), relaxed dining outside dining area, great for large groups, friendly and efficient staff. (See photo above)

Ritas: San Antonio port.  A locals favourite still going strong after all these years and recent changes.  Great for breakfast and smoothies or sitting people watching with a cafe con leche.  Also their pancakes are a must!

Sa Capella:  Set in a beautiful old monastery near San Antonio, the food is always top quality here.  The service by very well-dressed waiters is impeccable and do not under any circumstances miss their homemade Hierbas de Ibiza at the end of your meal!  Booking in summer is essential.

La Boedga:  Great buzzing atmosphere in Ibiza Town, delicious tapas dishes and wine.  Can’t go wrong! Booking essential.

Es Boldado:  Spectacular view of Es Vedra, serves traditional Ibicencan and Spanish dishes.  I particularly recommend the paella although bullit de peix is also not to be missed! Book ahead!

Comidas bar San Juan:  Doesn’t take bookings, you need to be there waiting for it to open because it’s tasty food at a budget price in Ibiza Town always attracts a crowd, and it is not a large place!  Expect traditional Spanish food.

La Paloma:  Delicious healthy international food in a gorgeous garden setting or lovely dining room.  You’ll need a car to get to this restaurant up in San Lorenzo.

Bar Anita:  Up in San Carlos serving traditional Spanish food in an active post office.  Great atmosphere and good for coffee and cake!

Destino:  This lovely little tapas spot in San Jose never disappoints.  Sit outside and soak up the village atmosphere and eat some seriously tasty tapas dishes. Booking essential.

Seventeen:  Lovely little spot in Siesta that does simply delicious food.  That’s all there is to be said.

The Fish Shack:  This is a little pop up shack every summer that sticks mix n’match tables and chairs on the rocks and serves up amazing fresh fish! Perfect.

Can Tixedo:  Lovely local tapas near San Antonio.  Usually displaying local art and is great for coffee, a few canas or a delicious tapas meal for lunch or dinner.  It’s all good so try them all!

The Olive Tree:  If you’re missing the delights of England then this gastro pub in San Antonio bay is home from home and does the islands best Sunday roast by far!

Casa Colonial:   The food served here is gourmet and really quite special but be prepared to pay accordingly for it.  The surroundings are beautiful and service excellent.  Near Santa Eulalia.

There are so many more amazing restaurants in Ibiza…enjoy!

Sunset

Sunset is a big deal in Ibiza and you need to make sure you see one at least.  Get ready to clap as soon as the sun disappears on the horizon, it’s an Ibiza tradition.

Cafe Del Mar, San Antonio: The Classic.  Everyone should see one sunset here in their lives.  hundreds of people gather to watch it every night with the Cafe Del Mar famous soundtrack.  The atmosphere is electric as people contemplate their day in the sun and their night activities ahead. (See photo above)

Punta Galera:  Otherwise known as Flat Rocks because of the amazing rock formations that lend themselves perfectly to sunbathing and sitting with friends watching the sunset. More secluded than most sunset spots and with the odd random hippy cave dweller to entertain you or make you a mojito.

Kumharas: Right round the bay of San Antonio, Kumharas is always buzzing with life for sunset and often includes some great live music to accompany the sun’s ‘adios’ for the day.  Buy a drink in the bar or simply sit on the rocks in front. Don’t miss a regular performance by island flamenco fusion favourite Paco Fernandez here.

Hostal la Torre:  Arguably the best view of sunset on the island accompanied by dramatic classical music in this bar/restaurant on the rocks.

Sunset Ashram:  This bar/restaurant has the prime position in Cala Conte and you can’t go wrong watching the sunset from here with a shandy.  Always busy with a great atmosphere.  If it’s too crowded then join everyone on the beach or the surrounding coastline which is also gorgeous.

Es Vedra viewpoint:  Es Vedra is the mysterious rock that beams out of the sea next to Ibiza and there’s something incredibly special about it.  Watching the sunset with Es Vedra in view is spectacular.  If you’re there in good time and fancy a walk, make your way up to the pirate tower (sometimes locked) for an extra Wow factor! Read about the many legends surrounding Es Vedra here.

Golden Buddha:  This is a great place to meet friends and relax for sunset, avoiding the bigger crowds of the sunset strip in San Antonio.

Places to party 

Obviously Ibiza knows how to party and there is the best selection of international DJs and parties in the world here in the summer season.  My personal favourites are as follows:  (although these are subject to change yearly with new trends, new nights etc so to get the latest you’ll have to keep your ear to the street!)

Rock Nights at Pikes Hotel:  Intimate and quirky hotel with fun music and a great vibe. Hang out in the garden, dance to some tunes or visit the boudoir for dress up fun! Wednesdays for Rock Nights after the live gig at Ibiza Rocks is my favourite time to go.  Do not miss Sunny’s kareoke bathtub or a crazy piano session.

Nightmares on Wax at Las Dalias:  Always the best live music and vibes at NOW.  A locals favourite in the Las Dalias market. Setting is lovely in the garden or there’s some serious dancing to be done on the sweaty dance floor. (See photo above)

Underground:  Some great DJs play at Underground but without the big price tags.  Again, great outdoor area and some proper music to dance to here! This place is consistently good year after year and doesn’t need to advertise like all its big next door neighbours.

Glitterbox at Space:  It’s Space’s final year and what better way to see it off than dancing about covered in glitter to some classic house tunes? Great vibe, drag queens and sparkle!

Flower Power at Pacha:  Pacha is the prettiest of the super clubs and Flower Power is a long running iconic night playing 60s and 70s music.  Dressing up is a must, you’ll feel silly without it!  Expect lots of fun entertainment throughout the night.  Don’t miss the funky room!

Other big Ibiza clubs include: Amnesia (needs to be done once in your life I would say just to witness the sheer scale of things), Privilege, Es Paradis and of course the original Pacha.

Day trips/Places to visit

San Miguel caves:  These caves are well worth a visit combined with a beach in the north of the island or a walk.

Salinas:  These are the salt marshes of Ibiza and are very pretty at sunset comboned with a beach afternoon at Es Cavellet or Salinas beach.

Dalt Vila:  This is the old town of Ibiza surrounded by fortified walls.  It has narrow, pretty streets with many hidden gems for food and drinks.  Great for wandering around, looking out at views at the top or visiting the museum.

Cap Blanc Aquarium:  Combine this on a walk from San Antonio to Cala Gracio.  This is an aquarium/restaurant/bar.  All the seas creatures are released and re-caught from local waters every year and actually live in caves in the rock in the actual sea.

Waterpark:  Great for a kids (big kids!) day out with waterslides, pools and ice creams available.

Formentera: Ibiza’s little neighbouring island is absolutely gorgeous and worth a day trip.  Go early morning and come back in the evening to make the most of your day.  You can rent a motorbike or bicycle to explore the islands beaches or visit the remote lighthouse.(See photo above)

Markets

Ibiza has some great markets which make a great day trip and you might even pick up something to wear, eat or marvel at!  There are lots of seasonal markets that pop up all over Ibiza for various festivities but here is the lowdown on my favourite regulars:

San Jordi:   Imagine all the weird and wonderful characters in Ibiza and then imagine all the weird and wonderful things they have in their houses…well, at San Jordi on Saturdays these little gems can now be yours!  Set in the hippodrome near the airport, this flea market is very popular with locals out of season and has a cafe for that much needed cerveza break. In the summer it tends to be full of tacky sunglasses and the like but in the winter months you can pick up things you had no idea you needed for bargain prices!

Cala Llenya:  My personal favourite, this is a Sunday flea market with a little more class.  Things can be a little more expensive here but are of better quality and just much cooler.  You’re likely to pick up a cool vintage jacket or pair of cowboy boots here, think second hand hippy chic!  There is also delicious local food served and usually some entertainment in the form of a band.  Couple this market with an afternoon on Cala Llenya beach and you have the perfect day on your hands.

Las Dalias Hippy Market: Another Saturday morning market.  Great atmosphere and excellent quality handmade products but with the matching price tags!  This famous market now even has an online shop so is not always good for the budget but some beautiful things can be found here.  Your shop will usually be accompanied by some live music and a few drinks at the bar.

Money saving tips

There’s no denying it, Ibiza can be ridiculously expensive but it is possible to visit on a budget.  Here are my money-saving tips for those on a budget or just those who don’t want to spend their entire savings in one week!

Club entrance fees can vary from free to 80 euros plus!  Always look for deals or free entry given by promoters usually on the day or the day before on the beach. NEVER pay on the door: you will be charged maximum price.  Some club nights offer free entry before a certain time which may be a good idea.  For popular nights look online and try to scope out the best deal possible.

Drinks – A drink in the big clubs can be up to 18 euros for a spirit and mixer and even a water can be 10 euros!  The only saving grace is that the measures are a lot stronger than in the UK.   Drink before you go is the only advice here as this is a sure-fire way to blow your budget straight off.  Beer and wine in most restaurants and bars are a much cheaper option.

Use buses where possible…it’s a lot easier than you might think and a lot cheaper.

If you want to see big name DJs but not pay the club entrance prices then maybe go to one of the free sunset pre-parties at bars like Mambos.  There are often free beach bar parties on Playa Den Bossa aswell.

If you’re spending a lot on food, then why not eat in?  Ibiza has some amazing fresh fruit and vegetables and excellent seafood options.  If you want to find healthy and organic food try Herbarius in San Antonio.

Remember to take essentials such as water with you to the beach to avoid paying extortionate beach bar prices.  Also why not opt for a simple sarong rather than pay out for sunbeds on the beach…sand is exfoliating!

More advice

Ibiza’s resources are seriously stretched in the summer season so please be careful not to waste water and to recycle as much as possible to help the island and it’s residents have a happy life.  To save money and reduce plastic water bottle waste, refill bottles with water from portable water points on the island such as next to the petrol station in San Rafael.  Whatever you do, do not under any circumstances leave your litter on the beach.

I hope you’ve enjoyed by Ibiza guide.  This is just the tip of the iceberg of things to do in Ibiza but if you’re going on holiday to the island it should keep you quite busy!  For other advice about more specific topics please give me a shout!  Caroline 🙂

 

Gorgeous Goa

I considered Goa as the latest exotic package holiday spot with built up hotels but I was wrong. Goa is miles and miles of gorgeous beaches, relaxed and friendly people and a great hippy vibe.

We caught the 12 hour overnight  sleeper train to Thivim in a 2nd class air-conditioned carriage. (Approx 1200ir) The beds are small mats with drinks holders,  a personal light, a curtain, sheet, blanket and pillow. I was at the top with no window which was a little claustrophobic but i manage to get some sleep. My dad, however, did not! He was too big for the little beds!

We took a taxi to Arambol and checked into No Name guesthouse on the beach.  I was exhausted so I slept a lot. In the evening we walked along the beach where a nightly beach shoreline market pops up full of international hippy products including hula hoops, tarot cards, fire dancers practising and the like. Another night I wandered up the beach from Mandrem, spotting starfish, pigs and crabs along route. After the beach market I joined a bongo drumming circle for a dance and then a group singing on the beach.  It was lovely and I even managed to get back in perfect time for dinner with my dad, Mogli and Abi without knowing the time….who needs watches or phones!

The next day we got a rickshaw to Mandrem which is basically the other end of the long Beach to Arambol. Mandrem is quieter and slightly more expensive. It is perfect for total relaxation with lots of yoga classes.  We spent the days there doing morning  yoga, drinking fresh coconuts and wandering down the beach.

El Shaddai Street child rescue:  http://www.childrescue.net

Wednesday we headed on the very crowded bus to Anjuna for market day. There you can barter the price down to buy Alibaba trousers or floaty hippy dresses. I bought a few things and then we head to the beach to meet Rhys coincidently over from Australia for a tattoo convention! We met him later for dinner after us both waiting for an hour in Curlies bar and not realising.

Then we travelled down to Central Goa to Panaji which is a old Portuguese colonial town next to a wide river estuary. Most of the town is quite ordinary apart from these giant casino boats on the water and the pretty little houses in Portuguese quarter. We walked up to a temple and then had dinner in Panaji Inn Veranda restaurant  which was delicious.

Next onto South Goa, two buses to Palolem which is similar to Arambol but in a curved bay. It was Saturday  which meant there was the weekly silent disco where you don headphones in order to get round the 10pm no loud music law. After a fish BBQ dinner we had a look but it was pretty empty. Whilst deciding we met a group of Indian guys on holiday and went for a drink with them instead exchanging stories and learning about each other’s cultures which was very interesting.

The next day we met the guys again and they had organised a boat trip  to spot dolphins and visit Butterfly beach (because it looked like a butterfly?! Couldn’t see it myself!) and Honeymoon beach (named due to a leg shaped rock formations!) where we stopped for a swim. Then they kindly invited us for dinner at theirs where we sat outside and drank Kingfisher beer and ate Masala fish fry with our fingers…delicious.

In the afternoon we moved to Agonda beach about 10am North and checked into Orange Sky beach huts. I went to yoga in the evening with an amazing teacher from an ashram in the north. I went to his classes everyday after that and felt amazing afterwards everytime! He would do back adjustments if you needed it and I loved the way he called everyone with Ji after their name too. (Apparently this is a sign of respect).

Agonda is a beautiful and peaceful  beach with a little road running parallel to the beach with some shops and guesthouses. One day the boys came to visit and I went for a walk down the beach with Uttam right to the end where the river meets the sea. We floated down the river stream a bit and watched the fisherman catch an ocassional fish with his little net.  I also found out what a ‘dosa’ is and had one for breakfast everyday after…it is a large thin rice pancake filled with your choice of filling (usually masala potatoes) and served with curry and chutney…yum!  After a couple of days the weather was quite overcast and cloudy so we decided to move further south out of Goa.

Porto Seguro, Arrial de Ajuda and Trancoso

Cheryl and I arrived in Porto Seguro from the night bus and sat down with the bus drivers on the kerb with a coconut and a pastry for breakfast. We got the bus into town and went to the port.  Porto Seguro is a small quaint town with colourful buildings.  Then we caught the ferry 5 minutes over to get to Arraial D’juda. A crazy lady took us on the bus  get to the village which is catered for Brazilian tourists.  We hitchhiked with a nice Brazilian lady to Praia do Pitinga which was beautiful.

The next day after a few bank and bus nightmares we caught the bus to Trancoso.  It took about 2 hours with a cute little girl copying everything I did on the way! We checked into a small hostel run by a really friendly guy called Guillermo. We went to the beach with a lady who offered us a lift to Praia do Coquieros and then walked back to Praia do nativos which looked beautiful with a mangrove background and sun setting behind the hills. A guy with horses turned up and I got on the horse whilst it swam ithe water…weird! Then he taught us some Capoeria and we did some yoga.  In the evening we went for a meal at a recommended restaurant which was delicious.

The next day we for up early to get to Praia do Especlho (mirror beach)  we fo the bus and then walked a long way in the sun to get to this remote beach which was never ending with white and black sand, mountain backdrop and mangrove river adjoining. We lasted until 3pm until we were too hot and a lovely couple offered us a lift back. Then we had a bite to eat and cooled down with some acai and walked around the village green with little restaurants and shops all around and a little white church at the end near the sea  We finished the day on the beach again…delightful!

The next day we saw a cute carnaval parade of 2 year olds and relaxed on the beach and then headed on the bus back to the port to get to Porto Seguro which was preparing for the start of carnaval!

We then got our 21 hour bus to Rio de Janeiro!!

Salvador!

I decided last minute to fly to Salvador from Recife with Gol as it cost about r60 more and saved me 14 hours (it’s 15 hours by bus!)  I arrived in Salvador at 5pm and got on the bus to Barra which is on the Praca do Se line. It took about 2 hours going down the coast. Barra is a beach area of the city. I went out for dinner with an Israeli guy who explained the conflict between Palestine and Israeli using cutlery and condiments on the table!

The next day I went into the historic centre Pelourinho on the bus with a Brazilian girl on holiday. We went to Sant Francisco church which was beautiful. There were wall plaques all around the plaza with interesting quotes about life and death and inside was all gold leaf decorated.

Outside the church the main plaza was decorated for carnaval with Afro- Brazilian ladies, carnaval masks and flags blowing in the wind.

We wandered around and took in atnosphere then headed to the Afro-Brazilian museum which had many artefacts from colonial times and some amazing wood carvings by artist
depicting the Cambomle gods and goddesses. The most famous one is Yemanja who is the goddess of the ocean. I then tried some local food: acaraje from Acaraje de Mary. This is a fried bean patty with shrimp, sauce and salad inside and it was delicious!

We went down in the elevator for Reals 0.15 to mercado modelo and the port, both old colonial buildings. The market is full of handicraft but was a bit expensive for us so we headed back up to the budget shop options to buy some things for caranaval.

The next day I went to Praia do Flamengo with Nils and Jon. It was long white sandy beach as far as the way can see. There are long beaches all the way up the coast  We ate acaraje and drank coconut water all day.

In the evening Nils, Jon and I decided to go out to Rio Vehelmo (10 mins on the bus from Barra) where there an outdoor food market where they sellthe best acaraje in town. I was having trouble explaining I am allergic to nuts so two Brazilian guys both called Gustavo came to my rescue. We joined them to eat and by the end of the night and many beers we went to the fish market to dance to a samba band! Then when we got back to Barra I could hear drums and there was a mini carnaval procession there. Everyone had gone to sleep but I managed to wake up Nils and drag him back out!  It was great dancing behind the drums!)

The next day I had to book a hostel for Cheryl and I so Jon and I went into Pelhourino to do that. We bumped into samba bands practising on the way and had a little dance!  We had some delicious quiche for lunch at a place on the left handside of the San Francisxo church and then went to book my bus tickets which took a lady 1.5 hours despite me being the only customer! What on earth was she doing?!

We dashed back in time for a quick sunbathe and swim in Barra and I quickly got ready to join Magda, Nils and Sven for Jazz at the art museum. They put this event on every Saturday night at 6pm. You have a great view of favelas, the sea and the sunset.  You can buy acai and pizza and there’s a bar and live jazz. It was a really lively evening. After we went to Pelourinho and Magda rook is to a Cacasha bar where they sell  flavoured versions of the famous Brazilian drink in plastix bottles for 10 reals! We took this onto the drinks and danced the night away to some amazing bands practising on the streets.

The next day I went to the beach in Barra and then Jon, Nils and I went to Pelourinho.  I met Cheryl who had come to visit from London at the new hostel and we all went for the typical dish Moqueca which has fish or shrimp with a coconut type sauce. It was delicious. We also went to an amazing cafe overlooking the city where man made his own elaborate carnaval hats. Yhey were so good and he gave me a mini hat as I loved the hatat was made of hats so much!

Then it was carnaval time in Barra! They have a pre-carnavals over the city in preparation for the real event which is massive.  Big trucks with bands and singers (some very famous here) drivw through the street with everyone following.  You can buy a tshirt to join a group and go inside their ropes or just go follow anyone you like outside the rope! It was madness in Barra. Lots of people and everyone drinking and dancing. We got our arms painted by a stranger and got involved! Guys were dressed as girls and there was lots of fancy dress.  At one point we were following a truck when everyone started doing a dance to the left and right and it was crazy. I lost my flipflops everytime! We had to go for an acai break after that. It was so hot and sunny! We watched the sunset from the lighthouse which was beautiful and Cheryl was so excited to be at the beach she jumped in the sea with all her clothes on!

The next day we had to first find lock cutters becaise Cheryl had lost her padlock key! We did some more sightseeing and I went to find an Afro-brazilian head scarf. I went to an amazing shop where the owner taught me how to tie one and her and her friend told me about althe Cambomle gods and godesses in portuguese. What I understood was fascinating  they were so friendly so Ihad a cup of tea and a chat with them and we took some fun photos.

Cheryl and I then dashed to the bus station which was extremely stressful as we weren’t sure if we qould make it in time for our 12 hour night bus to Porto Seguro. We did…just about!

Arcada (headscarf and clothes shop) Rua Inacic Aciole 07, Salvador.

The Galapagos Islands

I made a last minute decision to go to the Galapagos islands and booked a flight for $465 to Isla Baltra on the 11th January.  I flew with Tame at 6:30am from Quito, stopping in Guayaquil for 40 minutes so I took a taxi at 4am to the airport and was very tired.

As we arrived I got my first glimpse of the islands which looked like another planet. One island was completely flat the next was a volcano crater.  On entry I had to pay the $100 entrance tax which goes to conservation and the local people.  The nearest town is on island Santa Cruz you need to take a bus 20 minutes to the short ferry boat and then another 30 minute bus to santa cruz. The scenery was so dramtic, dried trees with random green cactus trees everywhere and very flat.  Then the bext minute it was wet and green cloud forest covered in moss.

After finding a cheap hotel to stay in witj Cassie and having a delcious almuerzo with lobster soup and ceviche for$3.50,  we went to visit Las Grietas. This is a small fresh water canyon great for a refreshing swim. On the way back we saw giabt marine iguanas staying very still and spitting if you came too close! They were like ancient monsters!

These are 3 main islands that are inhabited: Santa Cruz, Isabella and San Cristobal.  We decided to spend 3 days on each. The $30 ferries leave twice a day. One in the morning about 7am and the afternoon at around 3:30pm. They take about 2 hours and you have to go back to Santa Cruz each time. At the ferry terminal in Santa Cruz you have to take a 50c taxi boat to the ferry. As we did so much, here is a summary of each island.

Santa Cruz
Las Grietas – fresh water canyon you can swim in.
We hitchhiked to Los Gemelos (2 twin craters, one with a lagoon inside).
Tortoise protected where you can see the very old and big giant tortoises.(Rancho ??)
Lava tunnel – an amazing underground lava formed tunnel you can walk right through under the ground.
Darwin centre and surrounding beaches with colonies of marine iguanas.
Tortuga Bay – walkable from Santa Cruz or $10 by lancha.It is a really beautiful walk along a stunning beach where marine iguanas are sunbathing and swimming. It was funny when I realised that a strange print on the beach was iguana footprints with the tail print dragging along in the middle! I went for a swim in a natural pool and was surprised to see an iguana sqim past me using its’ tail as a propeller!  When we arrived we looked round the cliff and straight away saw 3 Blue-footed booby birds and a marine iguana. We sat and watched them and their bright blue feet for ages. Tortugua bay is a peaceful, calm beach surrounded by cliff and mangroves with pelicans dropping out of the sky to catch fish. We met Galo, a local who gave us a liftback on his boat.

Isabella

On the boat to Isabella I sat with the captain at the top and we saw lots of dolhpins playing in the waves. You arrive to conchas y Perlas port where sealions, birds, fish and penguins can be spotted.  I found a nice little guesthouse to stay in called Terro Real for $15 a night.

One day we rented bicycles and cycled on path and sand all the way to Muro de Lagrimas (wall of tears) where a colony of prisoners were forced to build to imprison themselves under terrible conditions. It had quite a creepy feeling. Then on the way back we stopped (and we needed to stop as it was so hot!) at cerros (hills) for viewspoints, pozos (waterholes) where we saw many birds including flamingoes. We saw giant tortoises along the way, mangroves, tunnel de estaneria  which is a lava tunnel with sea water inside.

After lunch we went to Perla y concha to swim with sealions and I even saw  little penguin on a rock. You could see where the different water currents were as when the cold and warm currents met, it went all hazy.

We fnished the day by watching a beutiful sunset on the beach.

The next day on Isabella I went on a boat trip to Los tunneles which are rock formations that are less like tunnels and more like arches. First we stopped at a snorkeling spot and I saw white tipped sharks and Galapagos sharks, seahorses and swam next to beautiful giant green sea turtles. Then we went on to los tunneles which were very interesting with many birds to see.

After a delicious lunch of fish encocoada we went back to concha y perla wih a decent snorkel and I saw sealions swim past underwater and a giant manta ray. Sealions were everywhere sunbathing!

My final day on Isabella I decided to go and see the world’s 2nd largest volcano crater which is Vulcan Sierra Negra and it’s sister crater Vulcan Chico. With the height it was covered in cloud and raining and I was very unprepared so the guide gave me his big raincoat. He also appointed me translator for the day as I was the only one who could speak both English and Spanish. The colours of the volcanoes and the rock formations were amazing. The last eruption was in 2005 and you ciuld see the difference between the old and new lava. Luckily 2 geologists were on their honeymoon and told us all about the rock formations… very interesting. Cold and wet we rushed back to catch the ferry to Santa Cruz.

San Cristobal

San Cristobal is the capital of the Galapigos islands but is strangely u developed and almost like a ghost town with vert little facilities. We found a hotel on the front called Hostal Albatross for $15. Contrary to most towns the cheapest accomodation is o n the front by the port. Trying to find decent food in the town is a nightmare but for some reason there are an abundance of bakeries with yummy cakes!

We went on a tour of the island by bargaining down a taxi to take us and the driver explained a lot about the island too which was great. We went to a tortoise conservation centre where we foubd out that each island had it’s own breed of tortoise. There used to be 14 brreds altogether but 4 have become extinct. Then we went to Puerto Chino which is a beautiful wild beach. A sealion had a piece of plastic in his mouth so some locals bravely approached him to remove it. Then we went to the only fresh water source on the islands Laguna Junco. On the way back I asked the driver to drop us at La Loberia where marine iguanas and sealion colonies are. The volcanic rock formations are beautiful there and we stayed until sunset snorkeling with turtles.

The next day we went early to La Loberia and walked along the cliff where I spotted many birds and turtles from above. Then we swam with sealions and turtles and tropical fish. After lunch I walked to Cerro Tijeretas where I saw the frigate birds with the male beautiful red chests that they inflate as a mating ritual. The scenary was like another world again and you could see Leon Dormido in  the distance.

On the way back we stopped to snorkel in Darwin bay which a local man told us used to be called Tijeretas point and he used to come down at night to catch blue lobsters for his wife before it was banned. I saw a spotty eel popping its’ head from out of a rock.

The next stop was Carola beach which was absolutely stunning with a lighthouse at the end of the rocks and sealions all over the beach. I sat and watxhed 3 baby sealions play together until the sun went down. On the way back we stopped at Mann beach where the swalions were very active as they cooled down from the hot sun during the day.

At night you could hear the sealions growl and call to each other loudly as a large colony lives by the port. In the morning we went for a walk and saw a baby sealion with plastic round its neck and  another playing ith a plastic bag. We reported it to the marine police butthey had to wait for the conservation people. You can’t 5ouch a baby sealion or it may be rejected by the mother but I wanted to prevent  any damage from the plastic bag so the policeman let me jump over the port fence and dodge the hundreds of sealions and get down to the babies with the bag. They thought I’d come to play and darted around throwing the bag. I waited for my chance and grabbed it and ran away!

The final day was amazing. I went on a trip ro Leon Dormido whixh is a giant rock coming straight out the sea and going straight down 40000km into the sea bed. In between 2 rocks is a 6 metre channel where a wealth of wildlife live or feed. The snorklelling was amazing. Groups of sharks everywhere: white tips, black fin, Galapagos and the biggest of all the Hammerhead shark famous for having a head shaped like a hammer! There were also many types of fish, turtles and sealions just darting in and out fishing or playing in the deep water. One swam directly underneath me really close.  So graceful!

Afterwards we went to the most beautiful, deserted beach with powder white sand to walk around and relax. in the afternoon I went back to Carola beach to end a perfect day. There was 3 sealions sitting in the rocks in front of the lighthouse with a marine iguana. The sealion got very close and the iguana shook its head in warning and the sealion bopped it on the head back! So funny!  Anither sealion groaned everytime someone attempted to climb the lighthouse and I watched as the frigate birds tried to steal the sealions catch for the babies. Fascinating.

Playa Blanca

After the craziness of the fiestas Julia and I decided to retreat to Playa Blanca about an hour away from Cartagena. And so did almost everyone from Cartagena making the most of the bank holiday Monday! The beach is long wiith white sand and many people selling all kinds of delightsl

We found a hammock to sleep in for the night and relaxed. I chatted to some ladies in the sea. One later chased me down the beach to invite me to stay with her in Bogota. . so kind! In the evening we had a fresh fish dinner and relaxed. We stayed there until the next day.

I decided to try and see sunset for the second time from the wall. I watched it from Cafe del Mar whilst eating an arepa con queso!

Bocas del Toro

My first day in Bocas del Toro I had my porridge breakfast in a hammock looking out to sea.

I took a lancha to Bastimiento island to Red Frog beach. We first went looking for tiny posion dart frogs in the jungle. They were difficult to find but once we got the hang of it we saw a lot! Red, orange and yellow ones. Then we went to the beach to relax. After a while we decided to look for a sloth. I asked a maintenance guy and he took us on a very muddy trail through the jungle, showing us fruits we could eat along the way and telling us about the island. We spotted a sloth who was awake (they are generally nocturnal) which was amazing.  I found some local yoga in the evening and had an early night. Perfect day.

I awoke to blue skies and sunshine the next day and decided to go on a boat tour of the islands. The lancha picked me up and we soon broke down!  It took a while and a few boats to sort out the problem but we eventually got another boat! We stopped at Dolphin bay where the water is cooler and lots of jellyfish live. The dolphins come here to feed on the jellyfish. After a spotting a few we saw starfish on the ocean bed and stopped to snorkel in Coral bay. It was amazing. The coral was so many shapes and colours I had never seen before and I saw many different fish I’d never seen before too.

After we stopped for lunch and I watched a man fishing for giant shells. He was taking the creature inside out the shell for the restaurant to use. I met 2 German girls and 1 Venzuelan guy who treated us all to lobster!

We then went to Zapatilla island which is a national park. It was stunning, pure paradise. Crystal clear water, white sandy beaches, palm trees, everything! After a few hours exploring and enjoyinh the island we headed back and spotted a sloth in the mangroves trees. Another perfect day. In the evening I walked round town and saw them practising for the national celebrations next week and had dinner for 2 dollars!

Zoe, Gen and I decided to go to Aqualounge which is a club on the next island. We dressed up for halloween and caught a watertaxi over there. It had big swimming pools in the sea.

El Caribe

After a sucessful little stop at Playa Tamarindo on the Pacific coast to visit the beach and mangroves to spot crocodiles which turned out to be very rainy, I took the 7am bus from Liberia all the way through the middle of the country, changing at San Jose to get to Puerto Viejo. I was so hungry but the only food available on route was overly fried rubbish.  I bumped into some friends from a few weeks ago so that made the journey pass quickly.  I saw many interesting landscapes and things along the way: rivers, a clear river meeting Rio Sucio, banana plantations for companies like Dole, rainforest and villages.  We passed by Puerto Limon on the coast and the Carribean influence was instantly clear. I was so hungry when I arrived that I went to Soda Caribe and ate ceviche and a fish casado (the traditional Tico dish) with coconut in the rice…delicious!

The next day the sun was shining and I hired a bicycle and a snorkel, popped to the supermarket for tropical fruits and headed along the beach road. There were lots of lovely beaches to stop at and the road itself was beautiful with tall rainfoeeat trees either side, big spiders webs between telegraph wires and I saw 3 large groups of howler monkeys swinging through the trees. I stopped off for a fresh coconut and went snorklelling at Punta Uva to see some coral reef and a few tropical fish. I then rode Manzanillo before cycling all the way back just before dark.

The next day I caught the eay bus to Cahuita National park. I walked round with a girl called Cassie and we spotted many.Capucin monkeys, a sleeping sloth, frogs, strange lizards and butterflies a plenty. Then we went on the national park beach until it closed. In the evening I gave some Indian Head Massages and had a very relaxed evening.

I hired a bike again the next day and headed to the Jaguar Rescue Centre. The centre rescues injured, lost or orphaned animals and tries to rehilibitate them into the wild. Most of the jungle animals enemies are power cables (particularly monkeys who try to overhanging trees), cars on roads, domestic dogs and deforeatation. I saw an anteater, 3 types of Toucan, baby orphaned monkeys, ocelots, crocodile amd caiman. Many bird and snake types and sloths. We were allowed to go into the baby monkey area and let the monkeys play with us! One howler monkey reached out his hand then climbed on my shoulder and my head! It was very special.

After my visit I met some friends and we went to the beach and opened fresh coconuts to eat and drink. In the evening a lovely Italien guy cooked me pasta (of course!) and we all headed out to watch a local fire show  I tried to go to the bank but was attacked by a giant crab on the way!!

After a day of hitchiking and rain I decided to leave Monday morning to go Panama. I saw lots od people rooting through bins and hungry along with a few shady characters, which reminded me that Puerto Viejo’s local population are not always benefitting from the tourism there and despite the country’s perceived wealth, many are still living under the poverty line.

Beaches

I’ve decided to review the beaches I go to so that if you are visiting the same part of the world you can use as a reference! I will name my top 3 at the end of my trip! I will continue to update this post so keep an checking back if you are a beach babe/bum/surfer dude/snorkeller/sun worshipper!

Costa Rica
Note: At some beaches in Costa Rica you are strongly advised not to leave valuables on the beach.

1  Montezumo
Two beaches each side of the village. One small on the right side and a long beach on the left. Lots of
wildlife around and turtle conservation centre on large beach. Pretty beach with jungle at back. Surfing possible

2. Playa Grande
Keep walking past Montezumo long beach (some parts you need to take the path through the jungle) for 1 hour and you will get to Playa Grande. A long stretch of unspoilt beach with jungle backdrop.

3. Santa Teresa/Mal Pais
This beach stretches as far as the eye can see and further! Wild with amazing rock formations at the Mal Pais end. White sand and surfing waves. Many places to stay but all hidden away from beach edge.

4. Playa Tamarindo.
Named after fruit that grows there. Long fine white sandy beach. Good for beginners surfing. Many hotels and restaurant s was very quiet when I was there but apparently gets busy in high season. River running at one end of beach leading to natural reserve with crocodiles that feed at the mouth at high tide.

5. Puerto Viejo beaches.
There are a few beaches down the long coast road from Puerto Viejo. You can explore them all by bicycle. The best snorkeling is at Punta Uva and Manzillo at the far ends. Beautiful clear water. Coceles beach is best for surfing and swimming

Nicaragua
Note: At all beaches in Nicaragua you are strongly advised not to leave valuables onthe beach.

1. San Juan del Sur
Small bay with fishing boats. Small waves. Ideal for swimming. Bustling beach town with bars and restaurants. (Some built on beach) World’s 2nd largest statue of Jesus (2nd to Brazil) on top of the hill.

2. Playa Hermosa
Around a 20 minute bus/taxi ride($30 taxi return or 10 dollars each for bus shuttle), this private beach (costs $3 entry). Stunning beach that is amazing for surfing.  Where they filmed Survivor, it has a wild feel with only one small restaurant/hotel. (Also rents surfboards $10 for whole day).  First place I’ve ever seen a Sand Dollar (amazing shell creature). Walk to the end of the beach to see large cacti growing on hill edge.

3.) Playas Las Penitas.
Take the bus for 1 hour from Leon. Long black sandy beach that”s
good for surfing. A few beach hostels and hotels (few open in low season). Very quiet, walk over rocks at the end with the cross on top to get to Poneloya beach. Both turtle nesting beaches.

Panama

1. Red Frog beach, Bastimiento, Bocas del toro.
This can be reached by water taxi from Isla Colon for $5 amd has a $3 entrance fee as itos privately owned. There is jungle with poison dart frogs and sloths. Beaches are white sand and good for swimming.

2. Isla Zapatilla, Bocas del toro.
Stunning uninhabited island with jungle in middle. Need to take a water taxi or go on tour. Crystal clear, calm water.

3. San Blas islands, Panama.
There are around 350 – 400 little islands in San Blas. Some inhabited by the Kuna people and some completely uninhabited with palm trees and crystal clear waters. The reef break also runs along behind them. Iguana beach was beautiful.

4. Carpugana, Colombia.
Nice small beach in the town. Clear water and pretty backdrop.A club on stilts buikt in water!

5. La Miel, Panama/Colombia border.
You can walk from sapzurro in half hour over border. Bring passport. Duty free shop. Nice beach but a lot of rubbish washed up. One restaurant doing good fish.

Colombia

6. Playa Blanca, Cartagena, Colombia.
Long white sand beach. Busy with locals especially holidays and weekends. Can snorkel as reef straight off beach. Many restaurants and places to stay on beach. Great fresh fish.

3. Taganga.
Small village beach with many boats moored up so not great for swimming. Many diving shops. Pretty mountain backdrop. Many restaurants.

4. Santa Marta.
City beach, industrial area so not great for swimming. Nice promenade with statues and ceviche sellers.

5. Palomino.
Very long sandy beach with jungle at back. A few hostels/restaurants along beach. Often can’t swim due to strong currents but can go river tubing down Rio Palomino to sea. Lovely relaxed Carribean vibe.

6. Cabo San Juan, Tayrona Park. Stunning beach surrounded by jungle and large rocks. Can walk in 2 hours or take a horse there. Very hot and humid, often cloudy in afternoon. Quite crowded with tourists. If you walk a little further to left of the beach there are 2 other beautiful deserted beaches.

Ecuador, The Galapagos Islands.

1. Santa Cruz-

2. Isabella –

3. San Cristobal –

BRAZIL

1. Recife

2. Recife, Praia

3. Recife, Praia

4. Salvador- Barra beach.

5. Salvador – Praia do Flamengo.

6. Arraial de A’juda –

7. Trancoso

8. Trancoso

9. Praia de Especlho

10. Rio de Janeiro – Copacabana.

11. Rio de Janeiro – Ipanema.

12. Ilha Grande.

13. Ilha Grande

14. Trinidade

15. Praia do ,Ubatuba.

Santa Teresa: Surfs up dude!

Today I decided to have a surf lesson. Some Kiwi girls and I got an instructor. It was much harder than I remember when I did it 7 years ago. I swallowed most of the sea and acquired many cuts and bruises but I perserved and it paid off! I eventually stood up on the board and felt pretty pleased with myself!